This is the fourth in a series of articles on my trips to Guyana since I have been returning annually for the past 14 years. Due to political challenges and other factors, some expatriates avoid returning to Guyana and miss out on the beautiful echo tourism locations and resorts through trips to the interior and savannah grasslands. Being the adventurous type, I would not be deterred by the issues in my homeland and last September and October decided to tour several regions and visit Georgetown.
Naturally, walking around Georgetown alone with a professional camera in hand, in the evening, is not recommended. But, I was quite at ease in the downtown core at midday, including the Stabroek market area. And yes, while it is true that some areas are in dire need of a cleanup, all in all, Georgetown is a beautiful city to visit. The hotels, where I stayed overnight, including Ocean Spray and Sleep In, were reasonably priced, clean, and receptive to tourists. Relaxing in several night spots including the Vintage Lounge, Gravity Lounge, and 704 Sports Bar demonstrates that Guyanese do enjoy themselves like other West Indians and possibly even more! One of my close friends, a taxi driver, was instrumental in my successful tour of Georgetown and its outskirts. In my opinion, tourists would benefit from being accompanied by someone who knows the city.
I fully enjoyed my visits to Georgetown but my love for the Charity/Pomeroon area in the Essequibo Coast kept me wanting to head back to enjoy the bustle of this bright developing town. Charity residents are very welcoming and receptive to visitors, always ready to give a helping hand. Several hotels, nightclubs, and shopping malls cater to residents and tourists alike. Being the last town on the Essequibo Coast and at the side of the Pomeroon River has made Charity the hub of activity, especially on a Monday, the market day. If you have never visited this area in region 2, you should pay a visit, relax by the stelling and view the boats docking with their produce to sell on market day. It is a beautiful sight to see speed boats and canoes, including children going to school, and coming and going on the Pomeroon. Having relatives in the Charity/Pomeroon area did facilitate my travels up and down the river and this allowed me to tour several creeks and visit resorts and a plantation while chatting with many wonderful people.
Last year, I took the opportunity to visit Moruca and meet other relatives for the first time. This year, I scheduled a two-day trip to this part of region 1 and took off on my own for an in-depth tour of the homeland of my mom and grandparents. Crossing on the Atlantic in a speedboat was an experience in itself, but it’s less than half an hour’s drive across and well worth it to be in a world so amazing. Moruca is made up of a group of islands, each with its own identity and all worth visiting. One of the residents and businessman, Flavie, took time out of his own schedule to give me a guided boat tour. This took me all the way to Kamwatta, the furthest point of Moruca. I have never said so many ‘good mornings’ to children and adults alike, which demonstrates the respect Morucans have for others and the quality of upbringing of the children.
Having Morucan parentage, on my mom’s side, I felt quite at home and would one day like to spend more time and help in the development of the area. Standing on the top of the bridge in Santa Rosa, taking in the breathtaking scenes, while reflecting on life, was some of my most enjoyable times there.
Upon my return to Charity and while continuing to visit relatives and friends in the Pomeroon area, I received a call from a close friend Yacoube Ally. He invited me to spend some time with him at his Manari ranch, near Lethem. As most of my earlier trips to Guyana were mainly to Georgetown and to the upper Essequibo areas, no way could I decline such an offer! Apparently, it takes more than eight hours on a dusty red road to reach Lethem so I was fortunate to travel by plane. Still, one day, I would love to experience the road trip.
Touching down on Manari’s own airstrip, I was taken away by the fresh breeze and comfortable temperature of the savannah grasslands. Although I heard that my host was converting some land into farmland, the sight was far beyond my expectations! Here was a semi-retired businessman, owner of a domestic airline service, experienced in mining, investments, sawmills, and other industries and now diverting to farming. All around me, as far as I could see, were organized beds of all types of vegetables too many to mention, coconut, plantain and banana trees. Fruit trees were in abundance and all naturally grown. Walking around the ranch, all solar-powered, I was surprised to see the Manari River flowing alongside. There was pride and enthusiasm, as my host described his future intentions for the now-developing area. Watching him playing with his two dogs and relaxing, I could now understand why he is always anxious to leave the hustle and bustle of the Georgetown lifestyle and head to the ranch. As I walked around, a few words came to mind that describes here, Paradise on Earth!
Although most of my life was spent in North America, I felt very comfortable in this north Rupununi environment. The lifestyle here is different from Georgetown and the Essequibo coast but the Guyanese friendly way of welcoming visitors is the same. I was privileged to see parts of Guyana that local Guyanese and some other expatriates may have not yet seen. My host did take me around Lethem and we even crossed over the bridge into Brazil and toured around a bit. Lethem is a very busy town but yet residents were very receptive to my presence and some even went out of their way to make me feel welcome. It was surprising to see so many stores in Lethem catering to Brazilian visitors; walking around, I felt as if I was in a little Brazil!
Sitting here now back home in Canada and experiencing the bitterly cold weather, I cannot wait for my next trip back home. I have heard stories and reasons why some expatriates and other tourists hesitate to visit Guyana. However, our homeland is a beautiful place to discover, and taking the opportunity to visit is recommended. The key to a successful trip is travelling with close friends and relatives, being attentive to surroundings, and avoiding attracting attention.
Next year, destination Guyana, can’t wait!
Keith Hernandez
Toronto, Canada November 20th, 2014
